Out of the shadows: a new dawn in Burma
Whether or not to travel to Myanmar (Burma)
remains a difficult question. The country is ruled by the
longest-lasting military dictatorship in the world and economic
sanctions have been in place against it for decades. For many years, the
democratic opposition – led by Aung San Suu Kyi – said it was unethical
for travellers to come here, that they would lend moral and financial
support to the regime in doing so.
Yet
in the summer of 2011, Aung San Suu Kyi declared that she wanted
foreign travellers to visit Burma. The daughter of a hero of Burmese
independence and a Nobel laureate herself, Suu Kyi is the political
conscience of her country. Her only caveat was that visitors should
avoid the tourist establishments that have close ties with the military
regime. If you do decide to go, advance planning will ensure your trip
is as ethical as possible (see our tips on travelling to Burma responsibly).
Visitors
to Burma are rewarded with that sense of a first trip overseas: the
gasp of tropical air on the runway, and the palpable remoteness from
home. In this excerpt from a longer piece by Marcel Theroux, first
published in Lonely Planet Magazine, we discover three of Burma’s most breathtaking sights.
Mandalay
The heat, smells, street life and colours of Mandalay are intoxicating. Girls with cheeks smeared with thanaka (sunblock
made from ground tree bark) balance two to a bicycle. Barefoot monks
holding alms bowls share the streets with scooters, battered cars and
cycle rickshaws. Street vendors cook mohingar, a spicy fish broth, over charcoal stoves for breakfast.
An
hour outside Mandalay is a ferry crossing to Ava, once one of Burma’s
greatest royal capitals. The red-brick entrances to Ava still stand, and
there’s an old watchtower in its centre. And just across the Irrawaddy
from Ava, more than 2000 Buddhist temples dot the hillsides of Sagaing,
their gilded roofs dazzling through the trees. Low chanting is audible
from an open window as nuns memorise their scripture.
Yet
it’s not all work. One Saturday night, I count 54 monks in a tea shop
watching a match between Manchester United and Everton on TV. They sit
in disconcerting silence until Manchester United score, whereupon they
all applaud happily.
Inle Lake
Nearly
200 miles southeast of Mandalay lies Inle Lake. It’s an hour or so by
plane across a landscape of tiny fields, huts and temples, a place
without water or electricity where agriculture takes medieval forms.
Long and tapering, Inle is a place of heartstopping beauty. Its limpid
water, ringed by velvety green mountains, is full of floating villages
and old temples.
Several different
groups live around Inle: the Taungyo, the Pa-O and the Intha, whose
houses are built on stilts on the lake itself. The modest Intha houses
in Pauk Par village are made from woven bamboo and thatched with wild
grass. The Intha wear bamboo hats and sell fish and vegetables from the
lake’s floating gardens. Intha fishermen are famous for their gymnastic
style of rowing – they stand on one leg and paddle with the oar braced
against the other.
Bagan
Bagan
is the outstanding cultural monument of Burma. The city is only 80
miles from Mandalay, but the road is so bad that most visitors choose to
fly or travel by boat – which is a day’s journeying down the Irrawaddy.
Cycling
along the dusty paths of Bagan, you are quickly lost among the
thousands of pagodas that cover the plains beside the Irrawaddy. They’re
all of different sizes – from just a few metres in height to more than
60 metres. Many are shaped like bells, but others are more outlandish:
Thammayangyi is a pyramid with stepped sides like a Mayan temple’s,
while Ananda’s central golden stupa resembles a Fabergé egg. In the
delicate 11th-century frescos within Loka Hteik Pann pagoda, the faces
and postures of two dancers reflect the area’s historic links with
India. And inside the old city walls lie the remnants of a single Hindu
temple.
At sunset, the red bricks of
the temples at Bagan turn a fiery pink against the backdrop of acacia
and cassia trees. As the sun sinks below the horizon, the wind freshens
slightly and bells on the golden umbrellas above the pagodas begin to
tinkle.
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Add: 20 Nguyen Truong To Str, Hanoi, Vietnam
Tel : (84-4) 37162149 Fax: (84-4) 37161738
E–mail address: sales@huongviettravel.com
Website: www.huongviettravel.com | http://www.aseantravelandtours.com | http://www.visavietnamonline.com | http://www.huongvietjsc.com
Vietnam Travel Packages | Vietnam Visa | Cambodia Tours | Myanmar Tours | Laos Tours | China Tours
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